#TheChaList 1 on 1 with Sutro

Like many during quarantine, I have pivoted to mostly virtual for both professional development and connection. For the last few years, I have been focused on learning about Portugueses wines and I took advantage of being hunkered down in the US with my family to taste more American wines. 

When the opportunity to connect with Alice Sutro, owner and first-generation winemaker of SUTRO wines, arose I immediately felt privileged to engage 1-on-1 with a winemaker who was not only living through the daily wildfires but was also dealing with COVID measures. I anticipated a conversation about smoke taint, but Alice’s was focused on getting me to understand the nuances and effects of soil, and more specifically the unique character of volcanic soil at the Warnecke Ranch. 

Many volcanic soil wine lovers tend to think of prized wines from islands such as Sicily in Italy, the Canary Islands in Spain, and Greek Islands such as Santorini.  Alice is convinced that while Sonoma may not have the beaches, it does share a similar volcanic terroir with these sought after wine regions and should be recognized for more than just their shared igneous rock. There is mountain influence, location to a body of water (tectonic plates are typically located near),  and iron found in the wine.

Igneous soils like Basalt,  such as the ones found near volcanoes which are porous which allow for the vine roots to burrow deeper than roots in other types of soils, so it makes sense that wines from these regions have an interesting texture and flavor profile. 

To highlight the unique soil, Sutro practices minimal intervention farming and some restraint when it comes to the use of new oak barrels. 

I am notably a fan of wines with more terroir focus, wines that speak to the place and land it is derived from, and Sutro wines were a great place to reconnect with Sonoma on a new level. You may be thinking but why should we care about soil or even more specific volcanic soil? The simple answer is that the average consumers find it hard to identify wines they like. And finding a commonality about terroir styles can be one way (although there are many others) to sort through the millions of wine labels to narrow down your preferences or soil type. 

“Geology is one of the characters of terroir but is consistent and can transcend vintage variability” - Alice Sutro

Here are notes from a private library tasting of Cabernet Sauvignon with Alice for the following vintages which are available for sale at sutrowines.com 

Cha’s Tasting Notes:

2014 

Peppercorn, Blackberry, Coffee Beans, Dark Chocolate,  Blue and Blackberries, Tannins Medium

2015

Strawberry, Red Currant, Milk Chocolate, Toffee,  Fresh Red Fruit, Cranberry Herbal Tea, Tannins Medium, Body Medium (-) , Acidity Medium

*Definitely the Cab for Pinot Noir Lovers

2016

Balsamic, Dried Bay Leaves, Blackberry, Vanilla extract, Idoine 

Green Bell Peppers, Acid Medium, Tannins Medium (+)

2017

Jammy Concentrated Grape Flavor (like candy), Black Plum, Bramble, High Tannins, Full Body

Alice’s  Response:

2014 Ageing aromas are more pronounced and the use of Hungarian Oak barrels which are known more for peppercorn aromas in comparison to American or French oak.

2015 was a drought year, early harvest means more red fruit shines as a result for Cabernet Sauvignon. The lighter color of the 4 wines due to lower tannins. 18 months bottle-aged before selling. 

2016 Riper fruit the smoother the tannins, the more sliding tannins. More normal yields more competition for berries to mature, greens the aroma a longer. 

2017 Lower intensity more on the red apple side, elegant tannin structure with nuanced aromas. Passed fresh fruit and more cooked aromas. 2017 experienced many heatwaves and harvest was completed before the wildfires so no effect of smoke taint.

In years with moderate differences (of course, excluding any extreme weather conditions) it is the geology, Alice believes, that will protect the wine if the best grapes are being raised in the right location. Nuanced aromas from soil composition and longer time on the vines can help overcome simple fruity flavors to develop more evolved wines with nice complexity, especially for Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. 

The main misconception that the soil must be fertile to grow grapes like other crops however, Alice want many to know that vine stress due to volcanic soil allows for 

Sutro’s wines are made with her personal style in mind of drinking fresh and approachable within 3 to 5 years, however are age-worthy at the same time. Though her library of wines extends to 2012 she learning from older vintages the power of her Warnecke Ranch.